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Couple seeks answers on Ghana trip
1/10/2009 12:13 AM
By RACHEL JOHNSON
Staff writer

Canoe rides through mangrove forests, canopy walks over the rain forest and hikes to powerful historic destinations greet visitors in Ghana.

Aiken residents Thomas and Angie Drake, in search of a non-traditional vacation where their economic impact directly effects the local economy, decided to explore the route of the African slave trade and trace the voyage to South Carolina from Ghana.

"It was reverse history to go from seeing the plantations and slave markets in Charleston to travel to see the departure location," said Thomas Drake. "There is such an influence in South Carolina from West Africa and the influence of the Gullah culture. West Africa is the original Jamaica. It is very hospitable, friendly and has a strong connection with the slavery and the people who built the Southeast."

During their two weeks in Ghana, the Drakes visited many historic sites which have become a part of Ghana's tourism. The interest in slave tourism began during the Civil Rights movement in the United States when prominent figures in American culture began making visits to the nation.

The couple wasn't fully prepared for the overcoming emotions they would confront along their reverse journey and were surprised by the accepting and generous nature of the Ghana culture.

"Assinmanso was a stopping point for slaves being marched to the coast. It was where they stopped, bathed and prepared the captives for their trip to the forts," said Thomas. "It was also where they decided which ones were to be sold. There is a mass grave that has yet to be excavated at the site. I found this to be very powerful and could feel the sacredness of the ground. It was the part of the slave tourism that grabbed me the most. Having seen Charleston, the dungeons we toured didn't have as much of an emotional impact as standing outside in the peaceful serenity, hearing the birds sing and learning about the tragedies."

Angie was haunted by two things in the dungeons which really made the experience come to life and offered insight into the horrific desperation felt by so many.

"These were people who were doing nothing except living their lives and then were forced into slavery," she said. "I was overwhelmed when I saw the tiny trenches that served as bathrooms and the punishment room. There was no light, the people were shackled, and there were scrapes on the floor from shackles as they tried desperately to free themselves."

For the residents of Ghana, the issue of slavery has only recently become a topic of conversation.

"Many Ghanaians until recently weren't aware of their slave history, even people who live near the dungeons," said Thomas.

Culture

Upon arrival in the Republic of Ghana in West Africa, the Drakes flew into the capital city of Accra.

"We arrived at 8 a.m. their time after traveling 24 hours. We didn't have any scheduled tours, just a guidebook we bought on the Internet. We planned to walk and take local transportation," said Thomas. "I think it hit us when we got there how different this trip would be from our daily lives and we had to figure out how to negotiate our way."

"The first afternoon was a bit of a shock. There were people trying to sell us stuff while we were in the cab. These were items found in a convenience store: drinks, gum, hand sanitizer, etc. They kept coming up to the windows. It took a while to accumulate," said Angie.

After the first day, the Drakes fell into the rhythm of the city and the culture of the country where it was a common sight to see livestock freely roaming the streets. They recalled goats, chickens, cows and sheep wandering the streets.

When they asked a local what kept someone from stealing a goat or a cow, they were greeted with a confused answer of "Why would someone do that?" It was explained if a goat slept on your porch, it belonged to you, and if a chicken came to roost at your house, you were the owner.

One of the major differences the Drakes observed involved the youth. Everything from their toys to their daily chores were different than in the United States.

"The first thing you see are the children out in the streets doing chores, running errands, getting water and playing," said Angie. "Everywhere we went the children ran up and called out 'Obroni' which means 'foreigner.' Kids would run up and want to shake our hands or hug our legs. It seemed to bother some people, but I found it flattering."

"I loved there weren't strollers. The women wrapped the babies around their back so their hands were free," said Angie. "The women were all carrying stuff on their heads; it was wonderfully practical and amazing to see women carrying bowls filled with ice and drinks on their heads with a baby on their back."

Other items the Drakes noticed being carried on the tops of heads include tables, bamboo poles, peanuts and more. It wasn't out of the ordinary to see young girls practicing, often steadying the bowls with their hands as they walked.

Another common sight was young boys and men with machetes. They would stop and cut down portions of the coconut trees or bamboo and carry them off or cut open the coconut and sell the fresh milk.

While the national language of Ghana is English, the majority of the people also speak a tribal dialect. Sometimes this presented challenges, but not as often as the Drakes initially anticipated. Instead, negotiating prices became the one challenge that seemed to arise the most for the couple.

"Sometimes we weren't sure how much to pay for things, but things are so cheap that even when we got ripped off, it was still a bargain compared to here," said Thomas as he laughed about the price of a cab ride where he paid 8 cedi and later found out it should have been 2 cedi.

Transportation in Ghana was by taxi, bus or tro-tro - similar to a van with individual fold-up seats. Tro-tros are available for transportation throughout the entire country. When seeking a ride in a rural location, the Drakes found they simply had to stand along the side of the road whether or not it was paved and wait.

"In a country the size of Great Britain, you can go any place via tro-tro for just a few dollars," said Thomas.

Politics

The Drakes' vacation in Ghana fell during the two weeks prior to Ghana's presidential elections.

"There were banners everywhere, everyone wore T-shirts or the color of their party. There are seven parties but two major ones - the NDDA and the NDC," said Angie. "One of my favorite things was talking with people about politics."

The Drakes learned quickly that no matter who a person supported, they were passionate about their candidate; however, they never spoke a bad word about the opposition.

"This was their fifth election for their third president and it was more about a pure celebration of democracy," said the Drakes. "Before we left, the State Department advised us that during the two weeks before the election to stay away from all political functions."

The advice became challenging to maneuver as twice during their two weeks in Ghana the Drakes found themselves in the middle of a campaign rally, including one at the Cape Coast where a NPP rally for the incumbent party's new candidate was being held.

"Our second day at the Cape Coast, we awoke to thousands of people who had been bused to the coast for the rally," said Angie.

Returning to the capital for their return flight, the Drakes again found themselves in the midst of a political rally.

"We saw the motorcade for the NDC candidate as he was leaving the rally," said Angie.

Ghana's elections weren't the only ones on people's minds. "Everyone came to shake our hand and say thank you for voting Obama," said Angie. "They are crazy excited about Obama being elected and think he is going to make Africa a safer place. They are still talking about Clinton's visit in 1999."

"It is a developing country who carries a hope of a connection with the western world. They so want Americans to come visit, and they want peace more than anything," said Thomas. "They want to serve as an example to other African nations."

The Drakes observed a great sense of pride and national identity for Ghana among the people as the country's flag was prominently displayed inside restaurants, on taxis, on fishing boats and the colors were worn by everyone.

People

"The people are so friendly. We made many friends. People drop everything to help you," said Angie as she recalled a man who rescheduled a business meeting, missed his bus and ensured that the couple arrived at their destination, even paying their way for no reason other than to be nice. "Everyone there has a tribal name and a Christian name. They told us to call them by their Christian names as they were easier to pronounce."

Hiring a cab driver in the city the first day, they had no idea how much time they would spend with Daniel. He accompanied them to museums, made accommodations and even offered to drive to the coast. "When you hire a cab driver, you hire a tour guide," said Thomas.

"He taught us many words and pointed out sights," said Angie.

Along the trip, they were constantly overwhelmed with the generosity of strangers who would hand them water, guide them to destinations and go out of their way to help. While standing in a long line at the bank, another tourist approached the Drakes to ask directions. Upon hearing this, the man in line behind them, simply got out of line and guided the gentlemen across town before returning to his spot.

"People drop everything to help you," said Angie. "What little they have they are so willing to share."

Breakout:

Ghana Fast Facts:

Nickname - The Gold Coast

First Sub Saharan African country to declare African independence from Great Britain in 1957

Kwame Nkrumah - first president, educated in the United States

5 hours ahead of U.S. time

Exporters of gold, timber, cocoa, diamond, bauxite and manganese

Average year round temperature between 85 and 90 degrees

Christian nation

Obruni means foreigner

Ghana means Warrior King

Motto is "Freedom and Justice"

Average yearly income is $400 (U.S.)

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